Here’s our year-to-date garden summary:
Month Time Cost Harvest January 4.0 hours $27.30 – February 2.5 hours – – March 3.5 hours $130.00 – April 5.5 hours $28.51 – May 5.5 hours $110.89 – June 7.0 hours $0.79 $50.83 July 11.0 hours $20.94 $123.68 August 8.0 hours – $123.94 September 2.0 hours – $152.75 October 5.0 hours – $155.77 November 6.0 hours – – December – – – Totals 60.0 hours $318.43 $606.97
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Does growing your own really save you money?
New Sprouts!
Veggie Gardening in Texas vs. Ohio
The main differences between gardening here and somewhere cooler like Ohio are the disgusting heat in July and August when everything suffers, and the mild winters that we can grow right through.Our last average frost date is March 15 and first average frost date is November 15, so there's a long season between there. However, the disgusting heat in July and August kind of puts a damper on it. Heat lovers like okra and cowpeas (Black Eyed Peas, Crowders, and other Southern Peas) will usually sail right through the heat, but other things will seem to go "on hold" or outright crisp up. Cukes want to give up the ghost, so trellising them helps ~ gets them off the hot soil and gives them some shade since only one side's worth of leaves is facing the sun at a time. Tomatoes won't set fruit once temps get over 95 every day ~ the heat renders the pollen nonviable, so no fruit is pollinated, therefore no fruit set ~ but you can either start over with new plants for the fall or just baby the ones you have through the heat (maybe with some afternoon shade) and they'll put on again once things cool down. I heard John Dromgoole today talk about using 30% shade cloth for them ~ might have to try that this year.This hothothot August makes for two warm growing seasons a year. The Fall garden (second warm season) is when you can replant squash, beans, etc. for a second crop along with new pepper and tomato plants. Check the days to maturity for what you want to grow in Fall ~ if they have a DTM of 90 or less, you'll have time for them to reach maturity and still have a month or so of harvest time. For instance, cucumbers have a DTM of 65 days, so if you plant them August 15th, you'll be picking them by the end of October and will continue to pick until frost kills them. Just be sure to keep them well watered during the hot months and mulched so they'll survive through the heat.The flip side of our warm climate is that we get to actively grow things all year 'round. We can grow all the cool weather crops all winter ~ broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, radishes, garden peas (English "green" peas, snow peas, etc.), cilantro, parsley, lettuce, chard, onions, garlic, spinach and a few others I'm not remembering. There are so many things we can grow through winter that our gardens really don't ever have to be empty. We do have to be ready with floating row cover or some other cover when nights dip really low ~ pea blooms will freeze and abort, lettuce can get nipped ~ but most all the other things will do fine through a freeze without protection once they're established. I like gardening in winter almost more than in summer since the weeds grow slower, there are less pests (both insects and diseases) and since all plants grow slower I can stay on top of the harvest without having to literally pick every day and freeze all that.Here's a link to a really good planting guide for our area: http://www.main.org/aog/plantcal.htm You probably already know that that's all averages and we can have weather patterns that upset even the best laid plans, such as the 90 (Ninety! ACK!) degrees we hit yesterday ~ I could almost hear all the broccoli and lettuce plants bolting and turning bitter. Mulch helps that a lot ~ it keeps the ground cool in summer and avoids the wild soil-moisture-level swings that make your tomatoes crack and most any plant suffer.Here's another good site for information about growing the usual crops in Texas (look at the bottom section for the good tips): http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ Of course I'm not a fan of their remedies for pests (usually all synthetic chemicals), and if you're the same I'd advise you to either ask a neighbor what that bug or pest is that you see then look up online how to fix it organically or put a sample in a ziploc bag and bring it in to the Natural Gardener. Neil is the botanist on staff there and he can figure out whatever it is you have and tell you how to fix it. He's got the neatest microscope that's hooked up to a computer so you can see it on a screen instead of having to squint through the microscope's eye pieces ~ nifty!extension/vegetable/ cropguides/index.html Is there anything in particular you wanted to know about that I haven't covered here? Let me know ~ I'll be glad to answer what I can.
Monday, February 23, 2009
More seed starting
Monday, February 16, 2009
Rain a-fallin', castor beans a-jumpin', and guineas a-hollerin'
Sunday, February 15, 2009
More planting and irrigation to boot!
Monday, February 9, 2009
I got good news and bad news
Let's plant a vegetable garden on the White House lawn
I truly believe that building a vegetable garden on the White House lawn will spur more people to learn about growing their own food and actually do it. It's human nature to "follow the leader", as has already been demonstrated by you, President Obama. Because of your calm, reassuring, compassionate yet strong demeanor throughout your campaign and into the first days of your presidency, I have noticed a change in everyone I meet. We are nice again! For God's sake, I even had a nice chat with the phone worker when I called to pay my phone bill! It's wonderful!
You are right that a lot of the change we need will be up to us to make. We're willing to do it. We just need you to continue what you've been doing in setting a good example for us to follow. If you build a vegetable garden on the White House lawn, we WILL follow your example. People all across the nation WILL grow their own food. This will have a tremendous impact on our economy and the environment. We'll save money, which we can spend elsewhere spurring the economy on. We'll save fuel from not having to have so much food trucked across the country. And there will be less emissions due to less of those trucks making less of those trips.
But most of all, people will be healthier from the exercise and nutritious food. That will translate into happier people willing and ABLE to do more to pull ourselves out of this hole we're in. If we have a better outlook and feel better physically, we can do so much more to turn things around.
Most of our despair is gone, President Obama, because of you. We wanted it to be gone and just needed someone to lead us to a place where we could hope again. You did that. And I am asking you to do it again ~ lead us again in providing for ourselves. Please, replicate what Slow Food Nation did in San Francisco's Civic Center Plaza, building a vegetable garden where one was 60 years ago. Please, put the vegetable garden back where it was for almost 150 years (read about it on this page: http://www.eattheview.org/page/history-1) ~ on the lawn of the Nation's House. Adams, Jefferson, even Eleanor Roosevelt did it. Please follow their lead so we can follow yours.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Windy, dreary day
*sigh* I had planned on planting peas today, but it's just too damn windy. The birds aren't even coming to the feeder it's so bad. I did go out there and try ~managed to get the end of the bed from the cilantro to the forsythia sage loosened. I just wish I could have gotten something planted. It looks so bare out there.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Warming Table's set up!
Friday, February 6, 2009
What are Heirlooms, Open Pollinated varieties, Hybrids and GMOs?
Basic definition of heirloom ~ a variety of vegetable (or flower, etc.) that, for generations and generations, has been grown from seed saved from the previous year's crop. Many people will define it differently though, but that's a generally accepted definition. All heirlooms, when defined this way, are open pollinated ~ that means that if you take measures to ensure no cross pollination with another type takes place, the seeds you save from them will grow true (the same as the fruit/flower you took the seeds from). Think of dogs ~ if you cross a Dalmation with a Dalmation, you get white puppies with black spots, but if you cross a Dalmation with a Lab ("cross pollination"), you'll get all sorts of compilations of the two types. Hybrid ~ a cross between two different varieties. This can be either an accidental cross in your garden that, when grown out, will produce who knows what OR a purposeful cross between two varieties known to produce a certain distinct variety (almost all plants grown from seeds of that cross will grow the same type). This last one is the one you get when you buy hybrid seeds ~ the seed companies have intensively studied and bred the parent plants to ensure that when they cross them, the offspring will all be the same (if you want to know how/why, let me know ~ it's a bit of a deep subject for just a quickie answer here, simple but takes a while to explain). Genetically modified seeds (GMOs = genetically modified organisms is the technical term) are ones made by splicing in genes that would never have naturally been able to be put into a plant's genetic code. Like Bt corn ~ the gene giving the caterpillar-killing ability of the Bt bacteria was taken from the bacteria and spliced into the corn's genes in a lab. That would never happen in nature. Most (I think all actually) seeds available at this time to general consumers are not GMOs. To grow those requires a contract with the company holding the patent on them, so due to the cost of drawing up, signing and enforcing that contract, the seed-producing companies aren't likely to do it for a $3 pack of seeds. GMOs are aimed at farmers who buy large quantities of seeds, large enough to make it worth the contract hassle. So, the seeds that you and I buy in the little packets are produced by cross breeding, not gene splicing. |
Happenings in the greenhouse
My Greenhouse
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Answering gardening questions
Milkweed (Asclepias) is a good one from your list ~ very popular and fairly easy from seed. Do you have experience with them yet? If so, maybe that should be your one plant to start with.
I know you said you don't want to do annuals, but if you're good at starting petunias, pansies and violas from seed, you may want to try just a few of those anyway. Even though everyone and their dog sells those, people who come to buy your other plants may pick up some of those as well as it seems genetically programmed into people to grab a couple six packs of those three every time they see them. LOL! Just be sure that your plants are healthy and priced within reason or you won't sell a one.
Basil ~ super easy from seed, but again, it seems like everyone is programmed to buy that when they see it. There are so many different types, and those do sell, but mostly it's the regular old type that sells. And if you don't sell them, you can pot them up into larger pots and have another chance at selling them later in the year, just like the milkweed.
Chives ~ another one easy from seed (but only fresh seed ~ germination rates go WAY down if they're old). And another one that's popular. And they're perennial. You probably already know this, but just be sure to have a BUNCH of plants in the same pot ~ little pots with just two or three chive plants don't sell as people won't get their money's worth.
Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and tomatillos, are also easy from seed, exceedingly popular (well, the tomatoes and peppers are ~ not so much on the other two), and good candidates for potting up larger if you don't sell them at seedling stage. Tomatoes and peppers are another example of "see them = have to buy them" plants, especially the good old types people are familiar with like Patio, Beefsteak, Big Boy, Sweet Million, California Wonder pepper, Banana pepper, jalapeno, etc. And the ornamentals go well if they're already large enough to be flowering/fruiting ~ the ones with brightly colored fruit, purple foliage or variegated in any way. Eggplants and tomatillos not so much, so I wouldn't start very many of those (but if you don't, atleast down here, you'll be sure to get asked if you have any ;). If you give out printed recipes with those two, you're more apt to sell them (you can print multiples to a page and cut out to make it cheaper), but again, not nearly as many of those sell as do tomatoes, so only start a handful.
I'm also starting a few artichokes for my plant sale. Easy-peasey from seed. I'll be printing out detailed care info to give with them and will make sure people know they're a biennial, so won't likely get any harvest 'til next year (don't want anyone surprised later, thus mad at me ;). But I think they'll be a nice novelty that people may try one or two of. They do sell quite a few of them at the nursery where I work ~ I was surprised to see that, so thought I'd try them as well. Worst case scenario ~ I take them home, pot them into larger pots and grow them through the winter, selling them next year for more money since buyers will be getting fruit from them that year.
Have you looked into rooting cuttings from plants you have already? Some easy things are rosemary, honeysuckle, any type of willow, any type of fig (fruiting or ornamental) and most types of the hibiscus family (hardy ones). It wouldn't cost much to try out other things you have ~ just put the soil in a butter tub or something and stick a bunch of cuttings in together. If they don't make it, not much time or effort is lost. If they do make it, they're easily separated, even if WELL rooted, by dunking the rootball in water (you can strain out the rooting medium and reuse it even). One more tip ~ if you don't have any of these plants, ask around in your neighborhood ~ someone may give you cuttings in return for helping them do a little pruning or deadheading in their garden. Or maybe they'll trade you cuttings for some tomato plants later.
(You may have already thought of this, and if so, I apologize.) Have you added up all your costs to make sure you won't actually lose money? I haven't since I know I'll personally lose money (all proceeds are going to the library project), but am doing it more to find local gardeners and get them interested in my project, which I think an advertised plant sale will do, than for a return on my investment (though I do think I'll make a little money, if I don't count my time). If I were looking to make money for myself though, I'd definitely and carefully add everything up beforehand, not forgetting to add in the water bill. Not only will this help you avoid getting deeper into a hole monetarily, but it will help you find places you can cut back to save more. Like using recycled pots ~ I'm using ones I get from my job and a local golf course to cut costs ~ that may be a good thing for you to do as well.
Whatever you do, start out small. I can't stress that enough because if you start small, you'll learn from your mistakes instead of being drowned by them. Good luck! :)